Ruby: the King of Gems

Perhaps no gemstone has been as prized throughout history as the ruby. Celebrated in the Bible and in ancient Sanskrit writings as the most precious of all gemstones, rubies have adorned emperors and kings and inspired countless legends and myths with their rich, fiery hues.

As the ultimate red gemstone, rubies have symbolized passion and romance for centuries. Ruby is the birthstone for July and is also the recommended gem for couples celebrating their 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries.

Also the color of blood, the stone is symbolic of courage and bravery. Warriors were said to have implanted rubies under their skin to bring them valor in battle and make them invincible. The stone has also been used as a talisman against danger, disaster, to stop bleeding, and a number of other ailments. Its intense color was thought to come from an undying flame inside the stone - or, as some legends would have it, a piece of the planet Mars.

Ruby is the red variety of corundum, a sister of sapphire. Like sapphire, ruby rates a "9" on the Mohs scale of hardness, making it the second hardest material known after diamonds.

The most valuable rubies come from Myanmar (formerly Burma), but they are mined throughout Southeast Asia. Good quality stones come from Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam. Kenya and Tanzania also are becoming more important as mining sources for ruby. But while the color of the stones from East Africa rivals the world's best rubies, most of these stones are fraught with inclusions that diminish their transparency and value. However, the East African stones are displayed to full advantage in cabochon cuts and have done well in the mass jewelry market. Meanwhile, Afghanistan, Pakistan and Russia have all produced occasional top-quality rubies, but the rough terrain in these areas has made mining difficult.

The most important factor to consider when buying a ruby is its color. It comes in a variety of shades ranging from purplish- and bluish-red to orange-red. Like sapphire, there is also a translucent variety of ruby that can display a six-point star when cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut.

The finest rubies are intensely saturated, pure red with no overtones of brown or blue. After color, the factors that influence value are clarity, cut and size. Rubies that are clear with no visible inclusions are more valuable than those with visible internal flaws.

Rubies are readily available in sizes up to 2 carats, and because of their intense color and durability, they make excellent accent stones. Larger sizes can be obtained, but top-quality rubies are rarer and more valuable than colorless diamonds - particularly in sizes above 5 carats. For instance, a 16-carat ruby sold at auction for $227,301 at Sotheby's in 1988. A 27.37-carat Burmese ruby ring sold for $4 million at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, in May 1995 - an astounding $146,145 per carat. In contrast, none of the D-color, internally flawless diamonds over 50 carats sold in the last decade can match this value per carat.

Rubies are rarely found perfect in nature - which is why many are heat-treated to intensify or lighten their color or improve their clarity. Heat enhancement is a permanent, stable process. Some rubies also have surface fractures and cavities that are filled with glass-like materials to improve their appearance. This filler may break, fall out or wear out over time if exposed to heat, strong abrasives or constant impact. For both treated or untreated stones, the safest cleaning method is to just use soapy water or a mild commercial solvent and a brush.

Pearls: The Treasures of the Sea

Pearl, the birthstone for June, is among the most timeless, classic and treasured of all gems. Throughout history, these noble gems have been associated with wisdom, wealth, purity, romance and mystery. The ancient Egyptians were buried with them. In Rome, pearls were considered the ultimate symbol of wealth and status. The Greeks prized them for their beauty and association with love and marriage. Medieval knights wore them in battle as a talisman against injury. And during the Renaissance, some European countries banned all but nobility from the right to wear them.

It's hard to believe that such a luscious, beautiful gem comes from such humble origins. A natural pearl starts out as a grain of sand or microscopic worm that works its way into an oyster and cannot be expelled. To protect its soft body from this irritant, the oyster secretes a smooth, hard crystalline substance called nacre. Layer upon layer of nacre coats the foreign object and hardens, ultimately forming a pearl. In general, the thicker the nacre, the richer the "glow" of the pearl - which can greatly enhance its value.

Although early pearl gathering depended on divers braving the oceans' depths to retrieve these treasures, the vast majority of pearls today are grown, or cultured, on pearl farms by surgically inserting a small shell bead, or nucleus, into the mantle of an oyster.

Even though pearls are harvested en masse on pearl farms, producing a quality pearl is an extremely rare event. It is estimated that half of all nucleated oysters do not survive - and of those that do, only 20% bear marketable pearls.

Pearls - the recommended gift for couples celebrating their third and 30th wedding anniversaries - are cultured in a variety of sizes, shapes, colors and kinds:

• Akoya pearls are the classic round pearls found in most quality pearl jewelry. They are mainly grown in the waters off Japan. They come in a range of hues, including white, cream, pink and peach.
• White South Sea pearls are grown in Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines and other areas of the South Pacific and are prized for their large size.
• Tahitian pearls, grown in French Polynesia, can be very large and come in a range of natural colors from gray to black to green to purple. Because of their large size and unique dark colors, they command very high prices.
• Mabe pearls, grown in Japan, Indonesia, French Polynesia and Australia, are usually flat-backed because they form against the inside shell of the oyster rather than within the oyster's body. They are often used in earrings and rings.
• Freshwater pearls are grown in bays, lakes and rivers primarily in Japan, China and the United States. They are often irregularly shaped, of various colors, and are less lustrous than saltwater cultured pearls hence, they are substantially cheaper.

When shopping for pearls, the five factors that determine value are luster (surface brilliance); surface cleanliness (absence of spots, bumps or cracks); shape (generally, the rounder the pearl, the higher its value); color (pearls come in virtually every hue of the rainbow, and a few others, too); and size (the average pearl sold is 7-7.5 millimeters, but these gems can be as small as 1 millimeter or as large as 20 millimeters). High-quality pearl strands will feature pearls well-matched in these characteristics.

Because pearls are soft, ranking only 2.5-4.5 on the Mohs scale for hardness, they require special care. Natural oils from the skin, as well as hair spray, lotions and cosmetics, can dull their luster. Like other jewelry, they should be cleaned with a soft damp cloth and stored in cloth or cotton away from other jewelry to prevent scratching. Also, avoid allowing your pearl to come in contact with harsh chemicals, which can erode its surface. And if worn frequently, pearl necklaces should be brought to a jeweler once a year for re-stringing to prevent strand breakage.

Platinum Education

Platinum is 30 times rarer than gold, but this precious metal's most appealing characteristic may be its durability. When other metals are scratched or polished, tiny bits of the metal may be lost. A scratch in platinum may leave a mark on the metal, but this metal is so strong that it will not readily chip or splinter. Even very slim platinum designs will permanently retain their shape. For that reason, platinum makes an excellent overall choice for jewellery.

Platinum is the strongest of jewellery metals, but it will eventually develop a patina of wear. Many people prefer this unique look, but if you prefer the shine, a jeweller can polish your jewellery to bring back the original reflective finish. In the mean time, buffing with a soft cloth can give your jewellery renewed lustre.

While there are accepted purity hallmarks for 850, 900, 950, and 999 parts per 1000, the majority of our platinum jewelery is 95 percent pure platinum combined with 5 percent iridium, palladium, ruthenium or other alloys.

There are three compulsory hallmarks applied to precious metals as a quality control: a sponsor's (maker's) mark, a fineness mark, and an assay office mark. These marks establish the origin and fineness of the precious metal and ensures it has been accurately and independently tested. For guaranteed quality in platinum, look for the correct 950 or 999 hallmarks along with the sponsor's mark and assay office mark.

There are few exemptions to the hallmarking laws. One exemption is by weight; compulsory hallmarks are not needed on gold under 1g, silver under 7.78g and platinum under 0.5g. Also, the UK is required by the European Court of Justice to accept other European national hallmarks as sufficient hallmarking, providing those hallmarks represent an equivalent guarantee of quality.

Soaking platinum in a mild solution of soap and warm water and gently scrubbing it with a soft-bristled brush is usually all that is required to maintain the metal's lustre.