Monday, November 26, 2007

Watches Learning Guide

Watches Learning Guide

12-Hour Recorder (or Register):

A 12-hour recorder (or register) is a sub dial on a chronograph that can record time periods of up to 12 hours.

30-Minute Recorder (or Register):

A 30-minute recorder (or register) is a sub dial on a chronograph (see "chronograph") that can record time periods of up to 30 minutes.

Acrylic Crystal:

Sometimes referred to as Hesolite, an acrylic crystal is made up of plastic composite that is generally less expensive and less durable than a sapphire or a mineral crystal. Its flexible, malleable make up means it will not shatter on impact. It also produces fewer glares under bright lights and can be easily polished.

Alarm:

An alarm is a device that makes an alerting sound at a preset time. Alarm watches can be either Quartz or mechanical.

Altimeter:

An altimeter is a function that shows altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure. Altimeters are commonly found in pilot watches or inside a pressurized airplane cabin.

Analog Watch:

An analog watch has a dial, hands, numbers, or other types of markers that present a total display of 12 hours.

Analog-Digital Display:

An analog-digital display watch shows the time by means of hands (analog display) as well as by numbers (digital display). The analog display has a traditional dial with hour, minute, and sometimes second hands. The digital display shows the time in Arabic numerals with a liquid crystal display. This feature is usually found on sport watches.

Annual Calendar:

A watch showing the day, date, month, and 24 hours, adjusting automatically for short and long months is called an annual calendar watch. The calendar needs setting only once a year between the end of February and the first of March.

Aperture:

Apertures (montres à guichet in French) are small openings carved into the watch that display certain indications such as the date or hour. Such apertures may only be visible when the watch dials are at certain positions.

Atmosphere (Atm):

Atmosphere (Atm) measures the normal pressure of the air at sea level; it is used in watch making to indicate water resistance.

Atomic Time Standard:

Provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology, Time and Frequency Division in Boulder, Colorado, atomic time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a metal isotope that resembles mercury. The result is extremely accurate time that can be measured on instruments. Radio waves transmit this exact time throughout North America enabling some atomic watches to correct themselves to the exact time.

Automatic Movement / Automatic Winding (also called self-winding):

Mechanically powered automatic movement or automatic winding watches are wound by the motion of the wearer's arm rather than by turning the winding stem. In response to this motion, a rotor turns and winds the watch's mainspring so that it keeps accurate time. Most automatic watches have up to 36 hours of power reserve. If an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will need to be wound by hand to restart again.

Battery End-Of-Life Indicator (EOL):

The battery end-of-life indicator function signals an impending battery failure in a Quartz watch by means of the second hand jumping in two- or four-second intervals. The watch has approximately two weeks before battery failure.

Battery-less Quartz:

These modern timepieces use hybrid technology so that they can run smoothly without manual winding. These watches use movement powered from a small, electrical generator. Energy is stored in a rechargeable battery or similar device in order to keep the watch running properly. Commonly known under proprietary names such as Kinetic (Seiko), Omega-matic (Omega), and Auto Quartz (Invicta), battery-less Quartz watches function like automatic watches and must be worn regularly to maintain their electrical power reserve.

Bezel:

Generically, the bezel refers to the upper part of the watch body. Specifically, it usually refers to a ring that goes around the outside of the crystal. On jewelry watches, for instance, the bezel may contain a ring of diamonds. On sports watches, the bezel may show calibrated markings and have the ability to rotate in one or two directions.

Bidirectional Rotating Bezel:

A bidirectional rotating bezel can be moved either clockwise or counterclockwise and is usually used for mathematical calculations or for keeping track of elapsed time.

Cabochon:

Decorative in its purpose, a cabochon indicates a smooth round or oval, convex-shaped polished gemstone set in the watch crown.

Case or Watchcase:

The case or watchcase refers to the metal housing that contains the internal parts of a watch. Most cases are made up of stainless steel but titanium, gold, silver, and platinum are also used.

Case Diameter:

On Amazon.com, the case diameter is an approximate watch measurement that includes the crown. (Some watch merchandisers do not include the crown in this measurement.

Chronograph:

A chronograph is a multifunction sport watch with a stopwatch function. Most have two or three sub dials or mini dials for measuring minutes and hours. When used in conjunction with specialized scales on the watch dial it can perform many different functions, such as determining speed or distance (see "tachometer" and "telemeter"). Some chronographs can time more than one event simultaneously (see "fly back hand" and "split seconds hand"). Chronograph Rattrapante: The addition of a fly back hand (rattrapante) on a watch significantly increases the potential uses for chronographs, making it possible to measure split-seconds of time or simultaneous events of unequal durations.

Chronometer:

This term refers to a precision watch that is tested in various temperatures and positions, thus meeting the accuracy standards set by C.O.S.C. in Switzerland. These watches are provided with a chronometer certificate detailing specific test results.

Countdown Timer:

The countdown timer is a function that lets the wearer monitor how many hours, minutes, or seconds have elapsed from a preset time. Some countdown timers sound a warning signal a few seconds before the time runs out. These are useful in sporting events such as races.

Crown:

The crown, often referred to as the winding crown or winder, is used for winding a manual watch, for setting the hands to the correct time, and for setting the date in calendar-equipped watches. On diving/sports models, the crown may screw down onto a threaded tube, which protrudes from the watch case to better ensure superior water resistance.

Crystal:

The covering of the watch dial is called the crystal. Three types of crystals commonly used in watches are: acrylic, mineral, and sapphire. Acrylic crystal is an inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out. Mineral crystal is composed of several elements that are heat-treated to create an unusual hardness that helps resist scratches. Sapphire is the most expensive and durable crystal, approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non-reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare, for instance.

Crystal Skeleton Caseback:

A crystal skeleton caseback is made of transparent material such as hardened mineral or sapphire crystal that reveals the intricate mechanical movements of the watch.

Cyclops (Magnified Window):

A Cyclops (or magnified window) is a small window or lens in the crystal that is added to magnify the date to two and a half times for enhanced readability.

Deployment Buckle (Foldover):

A deployment buckle, also known as a foldover, is a three-folding enclosure that secures the two ends of the bracelet allowing enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism.

Depth Alarm:

Divers wear depth alarm watches that sound when the wearer exceeds a preset depth level. In most watches, the alarm stops sounding when the diver ascends above the preset level.

Depth Sensor/Depth Meter:

Divers wear depth sensor or depth meter watches to determine their depth level by measuring water pressure. Readings may be shown using analog hands and a scale on the dial or on a digital display.

Diver's Watch:

Divers' watches traditionally feature a graduated rotating bezel, a screw-down winding crown, and a caseback; such watches must be water resistant to at least 200 meters (660 feet).

Dual Time:

The term dual time refers to a watch that measures current local time as well as at least one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial, extra hand, sub dial, or other means.

Dual Time/Second Time Zone Bezel:

A dual time/second time zone contains a rotating bezel, which can be used to display a separate time zone distinct from that shown on the dial.

Elapsed Time:

Elapsed time refers to the actual amount of time it takes for an object to travel over a specified distance.

Elapsed Time Rotating Bezel:

A graduated rotating bezel (see "rotating bezel") is used to keep track of designated periods of time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can align the zero with the watch's seconds or minutes hand. The wearer can then read the elapsed time off the bezel instead of having to calculate the elapsed time.

Fly back:

A fly back is an additional hand on a chronograph that moves with the second hand but can be stopped independently to measure a preset interval of time. It can then "fly back" to catch up with the second hand. This feature is useful for capturing lap times as well as finish times.

GMT Time zone:

Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), also known as Zulu Time, is set to the international clock in Greenwich, England. Through an additional hour hand, it reflects the world time on a 24-hour scale and is used by pilots across the globe.

Gold Plating:

The application of gold over the surface of an item is called gold plating.

Hand winding (Manual Mechanical):

A hand winding watch with a manual mechanical movement needs to be wound regularly by the wearer using the winding crown in order to keep accurate time. This motion winds the mainspring, which then releases its energy to power the watch.

Karat or K:

A karat is an indication of a metal’s purity, expressed as proportions of 1/24th of the pure metal used in the alloy. Metals such as gold are too soft in their pure state to use in jewelry, so they are typically made into an alloy for strength. 24K (equal to 24/24ths) is pure metal, and 18K is 18 parts pure metal mixed with 6 parts of other metals. That translates to 18/24=0.750, which is 75% pure or 750 parts per thousand.

Kinetic:

Referring to the Seiko line of Kinetic watches, this innovative technology has a Quartz movement that does not use a battery. Movement of the wearer’s wrist charges a very efficient capacitor that powers the Quartz movement. Once the capacitor is fully charged, men’s models will store energy for 7-14 days without being worn and ladies’ models will store energy for 3-7 days. The watch alerts the wearer to a low capacitor charge when the second hand starts to move in two-second intervals.

Lap Memory:

Some Quartz sport watches are built with a lap memory which enables the watch to store the times of laps in a race determined by the lap timer (see "lap timer"). The wearer can recall these times on a digital display by pushing a button.

Lap Timer:

A lap timer is a chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, the wearer stops the timer, which then returns to zero in order to begin timing the next lap.

LCD Display (Liquid Crystal Display):

An LCD display shows the time electronically by means of a liquid held in a thin layer between two transparent plates. It follows from the earlier LED or Light Emitting Diode display of the first Quartz digital watches. The LCD is preferred as it uses vastly less power enabling the time to be shown constantly instead of only when pressing a display button.

Magnified Window (Cyclops):

A magnified window, also known as a cyclops, is a small window or lens in the crystal that magnifies the date two and a half times.

Manual Winding:

Manual winding refers to a watch with a manual mechanical movement, which needs to be wound by the winding crown. This motion winds the mainspring up which then releases its energy to power the watch.

Mechanical Movement:

A watch’s mechanical movement is based on a mainspring, which, slowly unwinds in a steady motion to provide accurate timekeeping. As opposed to a manual mechanical watch, which needs to be wound on a consistent basis, an automatic mechanical watch requires no winding because its rotor winds the mainspring when the wearer moves their wrist (see the section on automatic watch maintenance for more details).

Military or 24 Hour Time:

When time is measured in 24-hour segments it is called military time. To convert 12-hour time to 24-hour time, simply add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert 24-hour time to 12-hour time, subtract 12 from 13 to 24.

Mineral Crystal:

Mineral crystal is made from what is essentially a form of glass. More scratch resistant than acrylic, a mineral crystal will scratch and is extremely difficult to polish.

Moon Phase:

The moon phase is an indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.

Mother-of-Pearl:

Mother-of-pearl refers to the iridescent milky interior shell of the freshwater mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink, and salmon.

Movement:

Movement refers to the means by which a watch keeps time and often includes the power source. For example, a watch with mechanical movement uses a spinning balance wheel powered by a tightly wound spring. A watch with Quartz movement measures the vibrations in a piece of Quartz and often is powered by a battery.

Pedometer:

Responding to the impact of the wearer's steps, a pedometer counts the number of strides a wearer takes.

Perpetual Calendar:

A perpetual calendar adjusts automatically to account for different lengths of months (30 or 31 days) and leap years. Perpetual calendars, which can be powered by Quartz or mechanical movements, are programmed to be accurate until the year 2100.

Power Reserve Indicator:

A power reserve indicator is a feature that shows when the watch will need a new battery or winding. A battery reserve indicator on a Quartz watch informs the wearer when the battery is low. Often this is indicated by the second’s hand moving at two- or three-second intervals. Seiko's Kinetic watches are Quartz watches that do not have a battery (see Kinetic). When a Seiko Kinetic needs to be wound, the seconds hand will also move in two-second intervals.

Power Reserve:

A power reserve measures the amount of time a watch will run after being fully powered or wound, with no additional power input. Normally, a mechanical watch that is fully wound or a Quartz watch with a new battery has a full power reserve. Many modern mechanical watches have a power reserve of 40 hours. Power reserve also applies to battery-less Quartz watches, which may have power reserves from 40 hours to 6 months. On battery-operated Quartz watches, the term power reserve is sometimes used to refer to the expected battery life--typically 12 to 32 months.

Pulsimeter:

A pulsimeter is the scale on a chronograph watch for measuring pulse rate.

Push-Piece:

The term push-piece refers to a button that is pressed to work a mechanism. Push-pieces are usually found on chronographs, striking watches, and alarms.

Quartz:

A Quartz is a caliber that uses the vibrations of a tiny crystal to maintain timing accuracy. The power comes from a battery that must be replaced about every 2-3 years. In recent years, new Quartz technology enables the watch to recharge itself without battery replacement. This power is generated via movement similar to an automatic mechanical watch, or powered by light through a solar cell (Kinetic & solar-tech).

Ratchet Bezel Ring:

A ratchet bezel ring can either turn one way (counter clockwise) or both ways and generally clicks into place.

Rattrapante Chronograph:

The addition of a fly back hand (rattrapante) significantly increases the potential uses for chronographs. It makes possible the measurement of split-second times or timing simultaneous events of unequal duration.

Register:

The register is another name for a sub dial that is usually found within the watch’s main dial. An example is a chronograph where there are registers for the chronograph minutes and hours. Some watches have registers with pointers showing the day and date.

Repeater:

A repeater is a device that chimes the time when the wearer pushes a button. Some repeaters, called "quarter repeaters" sound the hours and the quarter hours by means of two different pitched tones. Others called "five minute repeaters" sound the hours, quarters, and five minute periods while "minute repeaters" sound the hours, quarters, and minutes.

Retrograde:

Retrograde is used to describe a pointer-hand on a watch dial (often called a sub dial), which returns to zero at the end of a set period. For example, a watch may have retrograde date where the hand moves up a scale, pointing to the current date - when it reaches 31 it will spring back to 1.

Rhodium Plated:

Rhodium plated is the protective coating of metal with a thin layer of rhodium. It is a hard, brittle metal that does not oxidize and is malleable only when red hot.

Rotating Bezel:

A rotating bezel (the ring surrounding the watch dial) that can be turned in order to perform different timekeeping and mathematical functions.

Rotor:

A rotor is the part of an automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch that uses movement to wind the mainspring. It is a flat piece of metal, usually shaped like a semicircle, which swivels on a pivot with the motion of the wearer's arm.

Sapphire Crystal:

Synthetically formed, the sapphire crystal of a watch is extremely scratch resistant (nine on the Moh scale) and is the material of choice for many watch collectors. The downsides are that the sapphire can chip at the edges if it protrudes and it can shatter.

Sapphlex Crystal (Seiko Watches):

Sapphlex crystal (found on Seiko watches) is a highly scratch resistant crystal created by the fusion of sapphire and mineral glass crystal.

Screw-Down Locking Crown:

A screw-down locking crown aids water resistance by sealing the crown to the case of the watch. A seal is achieved when the case locks with the crown's internal threads and gaskets fastening the crown into its place.

Second Time Zone Indicator:

The second time zone indicator is an additional dial that can be set to another time zone. It lets the wearer keep track of local time and the time in another country simultaneously.

Self-Winding:

Self-winding refers to a mechanically powered watch that is wound by the motion of the wearer's arm rather than by turning the winding stem (manual mechanical). In response to this motion, a rotor turns and winds the watch's mainspring. Most automatic watches have up to 36 hours of power reserve. If an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will need to be wound by hand to get started again.

Shock Resistance:

As defined by U.S. government regulation, shock resistance is a watch's ability to withstand an impact equal to that of being dropped onto a wooden floor from a height of three feet.

Slide Rule Bezel:

A slide rule bezel is a rotating bezel or ring around the outside edge of the watchcase that displays a logarithmic or other scale. It is used to perform general mathematical calculations or navigational computations.

Solar Powered:

Solar powered refers to a type of Quartz movement where the batteries are recharged via solar panels on the watch dial. They have a power reserve so they can run in the dark.

Solar Tech:

Solar tech is a solar powered Quartz watch. This technology provides the accuracy of Quartz, without the inconvenience and cost of regular battery changes.

Split Second:

A split second is a feature on a chronograph that is two hands: one is a fly back and the other is a regular hand. In order to time laps or different finishing times, the wearer can stop the fly back hand independently while the regular hand keeps moving.

Stainless Steel:

Stainless steel is an extremely durable metal alloy (chromium is a main ingredient) that is virtually immune to rust, discoloration, and corrosion. It can be highly polished, thus resembling a precious metal. Stainless steel is often used on the backs of watchcases that are made of other metals. A metal of choice, stainless steel is used to make high quality watchcases and bracelets. It is also hypoallergenic because it doesn't contain nickel.

Sterling Silver:

Sterling silver, a precious metal, refers to silver that is 92.5 percent pure. The silver fineness should be stamped on the metal, sometimes accompanied by the initials of a designer or the country of origin as a hallmark. A protective coating may be added to prevent tarnishing.

Stopwatch:

A stopwatch with a second hand measures intervals of time. When a stopwatch is incorporated into a standard watch, both the stopwatch function and the timepiece are referred to as a "chronograph."

Sub dial:

A sub dial is a small dial used for several purposes, such as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph, or to indicate the date.

Swiss A.O.S.C. (Certificate of Origin):

The Swiss A.O.S.C. is a mark identifying a watch that is assembled in Switzerland with components of Swiss origin. It is primarily used in Bedat watches.

Tachometer (Tachymeter):

A tachometer is an instrument for measuring speed or units. In watch making, a timer or chronograph with a graduated dial shows speed in kilometers per hour or some other unit (see timer).

Tank Watch:

A tank watch is a rectangular watch with heavier bars on either side of the dial. It was inspired by the tank tracks of World War I and was first created by Louis Cartier.

Tantalum:

Tantalum is a metal with a texture similar to titanium, but a color similar to gold. This metal is used by Omega for the gold-like trim on certain titanium watches. Many of these watches are also available in titanium with real gold trim.

Telemeter:

A telemeter is a watch function that finds the distance of an object from the wearer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance. Like a tachometer, a telemeter consists of a stopwatch function and a special indication on the dial of a chronograph.

Timer:

A timer is an instrument used for registering intervals of time without displaying the time of day.

Titanium:

Titanium is a "space age" metal, often having a silver-gray appearance. Because it is 30 percent stronger and nearly 50 percent lighter than steel, it has been increasingly used in watch making, especially sport watch styles. Its resistance to salt water corrosion makes it particularly useful in divers’ watches. Since it can be scratched easily, some manufacturers use a patented, scratch-resistant coating. Titanium is also hypoallergenic.

Tonneau Watch:

A tonneau watch has a barrel-shaped watchcase and two convex sides.

Totalizer:

A totalizer is a mechanism that keeps track of elapsed time and displays it usually on the watch’s sub dial. It is sometimes called a "recorder" or "register." The term "totalizer" can be used more generally to refer to any counter on a watch.

Unidirectional Rotating Bezel:

The unidirectional rotating bezel, or an elapsed time rotating bezel, moves only in a counterclockwise direction and is often found on divers’ watches. It is designed to prevent divers from overestimating their remaining air supply. Because the bezel only moves in one direction, the diver can err only on the side of safety when timing the dive. Many such bezels are ratcheted, so that they lock into place for greater safety.

Water Resistance:

Water resistance describes the level of protection a watch has from water damage. See the "water resistance" section for a description of the different levels.

Waterproof:

Waterproof means the ability to completely exclude the possibility of water entering into any working portion of a watch. According to the Federal Trade Commission, no watch is fully 100 percent waterproof and no manufacturer that sells watches in the U.S. may label any of their watches as "waterproof." The FTC stipulates that watches be referred to as "water resistant."

Winding Stem:

The winding stem button resides on the right side of the watchcase and is used to wind the mainspring; it is also called a "crown."

Winding:

Winding refers to the tightening of the watch’s mainspring. This can be done by hand (by the crown) or automatically (by a rotor, which swings due to movements from the wearer's arm).

World Time Dial:

A world time dial, usually found on the outer edge of the watch face, tells the time in up to 24 time zones around the world. The time zones are represented by the names of cities printed on the bezel or dial. The hour hand points to a city along a set scale enabling the wearer to determine the time zone.. Watches with this feature are called "world timers."

Yacht Timer:

A timer that sounds warning signals during the countdown.

Necklace Length


Whether you're giving a gift or purchasing a new piece for that special evening out, consider where the strand or pendant will lie on the chest.

10k Yellow Gold Black Diamond Men's Ring



10k Yellow Gold Black Diamond Men's Ring (1 1/4 cttw)
Product Specifications
Jewelry Information
Brand Name:Amazon.com Collection
Metal stamp:10k
Metal:gold
Material:black-diamond
Total Diamond Weight:1.2 carats
Setting:flush
Width:24 millimeters
Length:26 millimeters
Total metal weight:11 Gram
Number of stones:3
Stone shape:round
Stone Information
Resizable:Y
Stone shape:round


1.2 carats

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Diamond in AUSTRALIA



















This MAP of Diamond deposit in Australia...

Tuesday, October 09, 2007

Gem Of A Gown: The Most Expensive Ever Worn In The United States

When his little girl asked her dad for her dream wedding gown one Brooklyn father just could not say no. Even when the price tag for the schemata was a whopping $300,000! Anthony La Bate of Francesca Couture has been charged with the task to design what is most likely the most expensive wedding gown ever worn in the U.S.

The bride (whose name remains a mystery) has commissioned a dress encrusted with 1,100 diamonds totaling 300 carats and 3,000 Swarovski crystals all combined with 50 yards of silk organza. The wedding, scheduled to take place in New York in late summer, will definitely be one in which no guest will out sparkle this bejeweled 23 year old bride.

When the bride - whose father paid for the dress - called La Bate, she asked for an "over-the-top magnificent wedding dress."

"I've never heard of a gown at this price before in the U.S.," said La Bate. "I've designed gowns with semi-precious stones before, but never diamonds." And so when La Bate suggested using diamonds, "She said no problem... when I told her the value came out to $300,000, she was cool with it."

But the bride isn't cool with the world knowing who she is just yet. "She's a little shy and doesn't want to deal with any of this at the moment," said La Bate. "She comes from a great family."

The silk gown (pictured here) is in two pieces, with a diamond-adorned bodice that flares out like two leaves. The bottom of the dress is a detachable ball gown, which contains 50 yards of bias-cut petals in six tiers of scalloping, that the bride can take off at the end of the ceremony - so she isn't weighed down.

Each diamond was individually hand-stitched on the fabric. If they were to be replaced by crystals, the value of the dress would drop to $30,000, said La Bate.

On average, brides will spend anywhere from $500 to $12,000 on a gown. Further establishing this gown as one of the most expensive ever made in the US a rep at Saks Fifth Avenue bridal, which carries top bridal gowns priced from $3,000 said, "I've never heard of a gown of that price, not even from the highest couturier in the world."


Some source material reprinted with permission from IDEX Magazine.

Shopping For the Wedding Ring

Wedding rings have been exchanged as tokens of love, affection and commitment for thousands of years. The Pharaohs of ancient Egypt are credited with being the first to use a ring in the form of a circle, a shape with no beginning and no end, as a symbol of eternal love. By Roman times, it was established custom for the ring to serve as a public pledge of the marriage contract between a man and a woman.

Traditionally, it is the groom's responsibility to buy the wedding rings. But it makes much more sense for the groom-to-be and his fiancÔe to shop together - after all, this is an item that will stay on her finger for life, and she should have a say in the kind of ring she will wear.

Although many couples still opt for the plain gold band to seal their marital commitment, most modern brides and grooms want to wear something fashionable as well as functional. In the wedding ring category, they'll find a plethora of styles, designs and finishes to choose from.

For instance, although gold is still the metal of choice for wedding rings, platinum has become extremely popular as a bridal metal. In fact, 40% of brides chose platinum for their wedding rings last year, up from 24% in 1998, according to Platinum Guild International. The allure of platinum is its unparalleled strength, durability and purity. Many wedding rings also combine the warmth of yellow gold with the cool white of platinum, providing a contemporary twist to a traditional classic.

For those who like the look of platinum but can't afford it, there is always white gold. White gold, which is pure gold that has been mixed with nickel, zinc, silver or other white metals, costs considerably less than platinum, but is also less durable.

Not only can today's brides and grooms choose from a dizzying array of fashionable solid metal bands, but they can also opt for wedding rings with diamonds or colored stones. Channel set bands - rings with a line of small diamonds set in a groove, or channel, along the band - are particularly popular. An increasing number of men are choosing wedding rings with diamonds, as well. One word of caution, however: when buying either a men's or women's diamond wedding band, make sure the stones are small enough so they don't overpower the engagement ring.

Other considerations for buying a wedding ring include:

  • Buy from a jeweler you trust. This is a piece of jewelry you'll wear for the rest of your life - make sure you buy it from a reputable professional affiliated with organizations such as Jewelers of America or the American Gem Society which require high ethical standards of their members.
  • Consider your lifestyle. If you or your spouse are athletic, outdoor types or work with your hands, pure gold (24 karat) probably isn't the choice for you because it's scratches and shows wear easily due to its softness.
  • Consider your existing jewelry. Look at the kind of jewelry and watches you already wear, and consider how your wedding band will look next to them. A bride-to-be also needs to consider whether she'll wear her wedding band and engagement ring on the same finger, or whether she will move her engagement ring to her right hand and just wear the band on her left. If she plans to wear them together, she'll need to choose a wedding band that matches the engagement ring and sits comfortably against it.
  • Establish a budget. Plain gold bands can be bought for less than $100, but fashion comes with a price. High-fashion bands with diamonds or other gemstones can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars, depending on the size and quality of the stones and the workmanship of the piece. Also keep in mind that a men's band tends to be more expensive than a woman's, because it tends to be larger, wider and denser.

How to Buy Her the "Right" Engagement Ring

Rare and fascinating, mysterious and magical, diamonds have amazed us, inspired us, and ignited our romantic passion since the dawn of time. No other gem is as universally revered as this beautiful, sparkling, precious token of love. Not only are diamonds the ultimate symbol of love and romance, but they also happen to be the hardest known substance on earth. It's no wonder that a gem with such strength, endurance and lasting appeal is the stone of choice for the vast majority of couples getting married today.

However, if you're like most men, you probably don't know a whole lot about diamonds. So how do you select the right one for your fiancée-to-be? After all, buying an engagement ring is one of the most important, emotion-filled purchases you will ever make, and you want to make sure she'll be as thrilled with it as you are. Here are some tips that will help you "pop the question" with confidence:

  • Know the Four Cs - Cut, clarity, carat and color are the main factors that determine the quality of a diamond and thus, its price. It's critical to educate yourself in each of these areas before you start shopping.
  • Do your homework - shop around, look at stores' Web sites, ask trusted friends and relatives where they buy their jewelry, do jewelry research on the Web. In other words, arm yourself with as much information as possible before you're ready to make the purchase.
  • Know her style - pay attention when she admires someone else's engagement ring or a ring in an advertisement; ask her friends and family what she likes. Look in her jewelry box; notice the style of jewelry she already wears. Also note the kind of metal she prefers (yellow gold, white gold, platinum). Go shopping with her at the mall and browse by a few jewelry stores; you'll get to see first-hand what really catches her eye.
  • Find her ring size - Just imagine - you pop the question, she happily accepts, she starts to put the ring on - and it doesn't fit. What a letdown. You want that magic moment to be perfect. So either get a ring from her jewelry box and bring it with you, or make an impression of her ring in soap or clay, or trace the inside of her ring on a piece of paper, or even put her ring on your own finger as far as it will go and mark that spot with a pen. A jeweler can get an accurate measurement through any of these strategies. And of course, you can always ask one of her best friends or relatives for her ring size - just be sure you choose someone who can keep a secret.
  • Have a budget in mind, but be flexible - Diamonds are available in a range of prices, so you're certain to find one that suits your taste and budget. Once you understand the Four Cs, you'll be able to find a stone that represents the best value, based on the combination of color, cut, clarity and carat weight you desire. But don't automatically pass up the "perfect" ring just because it's more than you planned to spend. Remember that this is an investment that will last a lifetime - and it won't depreciate in value. Besides, most jewelers accept credit cards or offer financing that allows you to pay for the jewelry in installments. As for how much you should actually spend, consider the commonly accepted guideline of two month's salary. However, this is only a directional tool to help you establish a budget.

Amethyst: The Color for Kings

Amethyst: The Color for Kings

Amethyst has long been a favorite gem of kings and queens for its royal purple hues. The gem, the most precious member of the quartz family, exhibits color ranging from pale lilac to deep purple. Amethysts are featured in the British Crown Jewels and were worn by Catherine the Great as well as Egyptian royalty.

Through the ages, various special properties have also been prescribed to amethyst. The Greeks and Romans considered it a strong antidote against drunkenness and drank wine from goblets carved out of the gem. Leonardo Da Vinci wrote that amethyst could dissipate evil thoughts and quicken the intelligence. The stone also is supposed to bring peace of mind to the wearer and prevent fatal poisoning.

In some legends, the stone also represents piety, celibacy and dignity. In Tibet, for instance, amethyst is considered sacred to Buddha and rosaries are often made from it. In the Middle Ages, the gem was an important ornamentation for the Catholic Church and other religions. In fact, it was considered the stone of bishops, and they still often wear amethyst rings.

The birthstone for February, amethyst is an extremely popular gem for jewelry because of its regal color, variety of sizes and shapes, affordability and wide range of hues. It also is the recommended gem for couples celebrating their sixth wedding anniversary.

The stone is mined in Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia and Argentina, as well as in Zambia, Namibia and other African nations. Very dark amethyst in small sizes also is mined in Australia. But the ideal for fine quality amethyst was set by a Siberian variety, often called Russian or Uralian amethyst, which is now considered a defunct source.

Generally, South American amethyst tends to come in larger sizes than African amethyst. But the African variety has a reputation for having deeper color intensity and is therefore considered more valuable. The African version also is harder to come by than amethyst mined from South America. Most of today's amethyst comes out of Brazil.

The finest and most valuable amethysts are very clear, with very deep color (and they sometimes exhibit reddish or rose overtones). Some stones are so oversaturated with color they have areas that are blacked out, which can negatively impact their value.

Amethyst is available in a wide range of calibrated sizes and shapes, including many fancy cuts. Large fine stones are sold in free sizes but generally the stone is cut in standardized dimensions. Paler shades, sometimes called "Rose of France", were common in Victorian jewelry. Banding - darker and lighter zones of color - is also a common occurrence. Occasionally, amethyst is even found combined with its sister quartz citrine into a single stone called ametrine.

The most common enhancements to amethyst are heat and irradiation. The stone, which ranks a 7 on the Mohs hardness scale, is considered durable enough for everyday wear. However, care should be taken not to expose the gem to excessive amounts of bright sunlight, as this can cause its color to fade.

Ruby: the King of Gems

Ruby: the King of Gems

Perhaps no gemstone has been as prized throughout history as the ruby. Celebrated in the Bible and in ancient Sanskrit writings as the most precious of all gemstones, rubies have adorned emperors and kings and inspired countless legends and myths with their rich, fiery hues.

As the ultimate red gemstone, rubies have symbolized passion and romance for centuries. Ruby is the birthstone for July and is also the recommended gem for couples celebrating their 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries.

Also the color of blood, the stone is symbolic of courage and bravery. Warriors were said to have implanted rubies under their skin to bring them valor in battle and make them invincible. The stone has also been used as a talisman against danger, disaster, to stop bleeding, and a number of other ailments. Its intense color was thought to come from an undying flame inside the stone - or, as some legends would have it, a piece of the planet Mars.

Ruby is the red variety of corundum, a sister of sapphire. Like sapphire, ruby rates a "9" on the Mohs scale of hardness, making it the second hardest material known after diamonds.

The most valuable rubies come from Myanmar (formerly Burma), but they are mined throughout Southeast Asia. Good quality stones come from Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam. Kenya and Tanzania also are becoming more important as mining sources for ruby. But while the color of the stones from East Africa rivals the world's best rubies, most of these stones are fraught with inclusions that diminish their transparency and value. However, the East African stones are displayed to full advantage in cabochon cuts and have done well in the mass jewelry market. Meanwhile, Afghanistan, Pakistan and Russia have all produced occasional top-quality rubies, but the rough terrain in these areas has made mining difficult.

The most important factor to consider when buying a ruby is its color. It comes in a variety of shades ranging from purplish- and bluish-red to orange-red. Like sapphire, there is also a translucent variety of ruby that can display a six-point star when cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut.

The finest rubies are intensely saturated, pure red with no overtones of brown or blue. After color, the factors that influence value are clarity, cut and size. Rubies that are clear with no visible inclusions are more valuable than those with visible internal flaws.

Rubies are readily available in sizes up to 2 carats, and because of their intense color and durability, they make excellent accent stones. Larger sizes can be obtained, but top-quality rubies are rarer and more valuable than colorless diamonds - particularly in sizes above 5 carats. For instance, a 16-carat ruby sold at auction for $227,301 at Sotheby's in 1988. A 27.37-carat Burmese ruby ring sold for $4 million at Sotheby's in Geneva, Switzerland, in May 1995 - an astounding $146,145 per carat. In contrast, none of the D-color, internally flawless diamonds over 50 carats sold in the last decade can match this value per carat.

Rubies are rarely found perfect in nature - which is why many are heat-treated to intensify or lighten their color or improve their clarity. Heat enhancement is a permanent, stable process. Some rubies also have surface fractures and cavities that are filled with glass-like materials to improve their appearance. This filler may break, fall out or wear out over time if exposed to heat, strong abrasives or constant impact. For both treated or untreated stones, the safest cleaning method is to just use soapy water or a mild commercial solvent and a brush.

Pearls: The Treasures of the Sea

Pearls: The Treasures of the Sea

Pearl, the birthstone for June, is among the most timeless, classic and treasured of all gems. Throughout history, these noble gems have been associated with wisdom, wealth, purity, romance and mystery. The ancient Egyptians were buried with them. In Rome, pearls were considered the ultimate symbol of wealth and status. The Greeks prized them for their beauty and association with love and marriage. Medieval knights wore them in battle as a talisman against injury. And during the Renaissance, some European countries banned all but nobility from the right to wear them.

It's hard to believe that such a luscious, beautiful gem comes from such humble origins. A natural pearl starts out as a grain of sand or microscopic worm that works its way into an oyster and cannot be expelled. To protect its soft body from this irritant, the oyster secretes a smooth, hard crystalline substance called nacre. Layer upon layer of nacre coats the foreign object and hardens, ultimately forming a pearl. In general, the thicker the nacre, the richer the "glow" of the pearl - which can greatly enhance its value.

Although early pearl gathering depended on divers braving the oceans' depths to retrieve these treasures, the vast majority of pearls today are grown, or cultured, on pearl farms by surgically inserting a small shell bead, or nucleus, into the mantle of an oyster.

Even though pearls are harvested en masse on pearl farms, producing a quality pearl is an extremely rare event. It is estimated that half of all nucleated oysters do not survive - and of those that do, only 20% bear marketable pearls.

Pearls - the recommended gift for couples celebrating their third and 30th wedding anniversaries - are cultured in a variety of sizes, shapes, colors and kinds:

  • Akoya pearls are the classic round pearls found in most quality pearl jewelry. They are mainly grown in the waters off Japan. They come in a range of hues, including white, cream, pink and peach.
  • White South Sea pearls are grown in Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines and other areas of the South Pacific and are prized for their large size.
  • Tahitian pearls, grown in French Polynesia, can be very large and come in a range of natural colors from gray to black to green to purple. Because of their large size and unique dark colors, they command very high prices.
  • Mabe pearls, grown in Japan, Indonesia, French Polynesia and Australia, are usually flat-backed because they form against the inside shell of the oyster rather than within the oyster's body. They are often used in earrings and rings.
  • Freshwater pearls are grown in bays, lakes and rivers primarily in Japan, China and the United States. They are often irregularly shaped, of various colors, and are less lustrous than saltwater cultured pearls hence, they are substantially cheaper.

When shopping for pearls, the five factors that determine value are luster (surface brilliance); surface cleanliness (absence of spots, bumps or cracks); shape (generally, the rounder the pearl, the higher its value); color (pearls come in virtually every hue of the rainbow, and a few others, too); and size (the average pearl sold is 7-7.5 millimeters, but these gems can be as small as 1 millimeter or as large as 20 millimeters). High-quality pearl strands will feature pearls well-matched in these characteristics.

Because pearls are soft, ranking only 2.5-4.5 on the Mohs scale for hardness, they require special care. Natural oils from the skin, as well as hair spray, lotions and cosmetics, can dull their luster. Like other jewelry, they should be cleaned with a soft damp cloth and stored in cloth or cotton away from other jewelry to prevent scratching. Also, avoid allowing your pearl to come in contact with harsh chemicals, which can erode its surface. And if worn frequently, pearl necklaces should be brought to a jeweler once a year for re-stringing to prevent strand breakage.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Platinum Education

Platinum is 30 times rarer than gold, but this precious metal's most appealing characteristic may be its durability. When other metals are scratched or polished, tiny bits of the metal may be lost. A scratch in platinum may leave a mark on the metal, but this metal is so strong that it will not readily chip or splinter. Even very slim platinum designs will permanently retain their shape. For that reason, platinum makes an excellent overall choice for jewellery.

Platinum is the strongest of jewellery metals, but it will eventually develop a patina of wear. Many people prefer this unique look, but if you prefer the shine, a jeweller can polish your jewellery to bring back the original reflective finish. In the mean time, buffing with a soft cloth can give your jewellery renewed lustre.

Purity & Hallmarks

While there are accepted purity hallmarks for 850, 900, 950, and 999 parts per 1000, the majority of our platinum jewelery is 95 percent pure platinum combined with 5 percent iridium, palladium, ruthenium or other alloys.

There are three compulsory hallmarks applied to precious metals as a quality control: a sponsor's (maker's) mark, a fineness mark, and an assay office mark. These marks establish the origin and fineness of the precious metal and ensures it has been accurately and independently tested. For guaranteed quality in platinum, look for the correct 950 or 999 hallmarks along with the sponsor's mark and assay office mark.

There are few exemptions to the hallmarking laws. One exemption is by weight; compulsory hallmarks are not needed on gold under 1g, silver under 7.78g and platinum under 0.5g. Also, the UK is required by the European Court of Justice to accept other European national hallmarks as sufficient hallmarking, providing those hallmarks represent an equivalent guarantee of quality.

Care

Soaking platinum in a mild solution of soap and warm water and gently scrubbing it with a soft-bristled brush is usually all that is required to maintain the metal's lustre.

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Wedding Ring


Choosing a wedding band can be far simpler than finding the perfect engagement ring. It's really just a question of choosing your colour and selecting a comfortable width. The traditional way for a woman to wear her wedding ring is on the same finger as the engagement ring but positioned first, so it's closer to the heart. If you choose this tradition, consider how the rings will look together in terms of colour and width.

To Match or Complement?


To Match or Complement? There are no hard rules about whether or not her wedding band should be the same metal as her engagement ring. Many women like the symmetry of two identically matching rings, others prefer the look of two distinctive bands of colour. Of course, you could even choose a platinum band to go with a white gold engagement ring—it's all personal preference.

The same rules apply when you are deciding whether to match or complement each other's wedding bands. It is perfectly acceptable to prefer a different metal than your spouse. To be sure you'll enjoy your rings for the years ahead, just choose rings that you love.


Traditional and Comfort-Fit Wedding Bands


Illustration of Traditional and Comfort-Fit Wedding Bands Getting the right fit involves more than just careful sizing, you should also consider the general design of the ring. At Blue Nile, you have your choice of traditional or comfort-fit wedding bands. The traditional band has a flat interior surface and simple domed exterior. The comfort-fit band has slightly rounded inside edges to enable more comfortable long-term wear

The Perfect Width


When selecting the width of her wedding band, consider the width of her engagement ring. While it's perfectly acceptable if the two are of different widths, many women seem to prefer an identical or at least similar width. Again, it's a matter of personal preference.

Illustration of Ring Width At Blue Nile, men's wedding bands are available in 3, 4, 5, and 6mm widths. When selecting your width, consider the shape of your hand. Is your hand long and narrow or short and broad? Generally, your ring should match the shape of your hand. Narrow bands work best on narrow hands while broad bands are better for broad hands, but the bottom line is always personal preference.






Gold education

Gold is graded in purity called Karats, 24 Karat gold is pure gold, also known as fine gold with a purity of 99.9%. An 18 karat gold ring is 75% pure gold and 25% alloy; while a 14 karat gold ring is 58.5% pure gold and 41.5% alloy.

Hallmark


Minimum Fine Gold Content Gold Markings Purity
24K 100% 999
18K 75% 750
14K 58.3% 585
10K 41.7% 417
9K 37.5% 375

Gold Colors and Mixture

Yellow Gold Gold with Copper and Silver Alloys
White Gold Gold Nickel, Zinc, silver
Green Gold Gold with Silver, sometimes Copper and Zinc
Red Gold Gold with Copper
Pink Gold Gold with Copper


Gold


Platinum

Platinum

Platinum is silvery-white precious metal and is usually more expensive than gold. Most platinum jewelry is 95% platinum and 5 %alloy. Platinum is heavier and more durable than gold with a slower wear factor.

Gold Education

Gold: A heavy, malleable metal element that is unalterable by heat, moisture and most corrosive agents. It is used in a wide variety of jewelry styles and processes. Too soft to be used alone, it is often combined with other metals.


Gold à Quatre Couleurs: Gold in four different shades used simultaneously in one piece of jewelry. In some cases it refers to three or five different shades of gold combined in one jewelry item.

Gold Alloy: Gold that is alloyed with a variety of other metals, including silver, palladium, copper, nickel, iron or others, all depending on the desired strength, color and intention of its final use.

Gold Filled: Gold bonded to a base metal by electroplating. It is usually done to a layer of specific fineness.

Gold Leaf: An extremely thin tissue of gold used for gilding.


Karat: The measurement for the fineness and purity of gold and gold alloy, as expressed by a number (e.g., 24 karat, 18 karat, 14 karat). In appraising gold jewelry, the higher the number of karats, the greater is the value of the piece.



Platinum: A metal element whose rarity and unusual tensile strength make it extremely valuable, with a price exceeding even that of gold. It is a heavy, silver-white element that is malleable and ductile and does not corrode. Nor does it tarnish. It needs great heat to fuse, and this durability -- coupled with its harmonious color -- make it ideal as a diamond setting. When employed for jewelry, it is used in the form of a platinum alloy.

Purity: A measurement of the amount of pure gold in a jewelry item. 24 karat represents 100 percent gold; 18 karat has 75 percent gold, and 14 karat has 58 percent gold.

Quality Mark: By United States law, a "k" mark representing karat must appear on the back of an authentic gold piece, along with the manufacturer's trademark and country of origin to guarantee the authenticity of the gold.

Rose Gold: A gold alloy with additional copper added to it to give it a blushing hue.

Sterling Silver: An alloy of silver with a fineness of 0.925 parts silver (in Great Britain) and 0.075 parts copper. In the U.S.A. the measurement is 0.921 parts silver.

White Gold: An alloy of gold with a large percentage of silver or other white metals.

Yellow Gold: An alloy of gold mixed with silver and copper.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Diamond : GENERAL DIAMOND BUYING GUIDE

  1. CARAT
  2. COLOUR
  3. CUT
  4. CLARITY
  5. FLUORESCENCE
  6. HEARTS AND ARROWS
  7. CONFLICT DIAMONDS
  8. KIMBERLEY PROCESS

DIAMOND CARAT
A diamonds weight is represented in carats. Carat is a measurement of weight NOT size. Weight impacts the price most dramatically out of the various diamond characteristics. This is why some diamonds have poor cut to retain diamond rough and larger carat size equating to a higher selling price. Diamond size is dependant on your budget and needs to be considered equally with the other characteristics of colour, cut and clarity in order to purchase a quality diamond.

One diamond carat is divided into 100 points; a diamond that is ¾ of a carat is also 75 points. One carat is the equivalent of 0.2 grams. A large diamond with poor cut, colour and clarity will appear less eye catching than a smaller diamond with excellent cut, colour and clarity so a delicate balance is required. Speak to 247Diamonds.com about balance and how to achieve your desired diamond size whilst balancing the other characteristics in a harmonious mix around your budgetary requirements.

Diamond Sizes

Diamond carat weight affects the price of diamonds more than any other determinant. A diamond that is double the size of another diamond can be up to four times the price. This significant movement in price is because the relative scarcity of larger diamonds. A combination of a large size (1 carat+) with the best colour (D), best clarity (IF) and excellent/ideal cut is so rare the price is multiplied several times when comparing a similar size with poorer features.

The popular carat sizes are 0.50ct, 0.75ct, 1.00ct, 1.50ct and 2.00ct. Often diamond cutters will leave more rough diamond in order to achieve a larger carat weight and achieve a higher selling price. There are often bargains to be found at just under these most popular sizes and many of these bargains can have superior cuts which equate to more diamond sparkle and life. Diamonds with thick to very thick girdles are often intentionally cut to increase weight and this doesn�t improve performance it just costs you more (something to watch for). In recent years, having a 1.00 carat+ diamond was the best and most desired with no regard to quality, but as consumers are educated, (mainly because of the internet), more emphasis is placed on cut and visual performance. In the coming years dinner table diamond talk will be around quality rather than size and this could be something to consider.

SUMMARY
In summary a carat is a weight and does not always relate to size/ measurement although the two are usually proportional. A diamond cutter will often retain as much diamond rough as possible and forego cut in order to increase weight and maintain a higher price. Often this carat increase can make the diamond a poorer cut and less visually performing than a smaller diamond. Carat and then clarity are the two key price drivers and often shopping for diamonds just under the popular sizes of 0.50ct, 0.75ct, 1.00ct, 1.50ct, and 2.00ct can yield a better cut and a cheaper price. As consumers understand more about diamonds less emphasis will be placed on size and more on diamond quality. It�s easy to have the biggest car but should a Cadillac cost more than a Lamborghini?

DIAMOND COLOUR
The diamond colour scale was devised by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the mid 1950's to define and regulate the colour spectrum of diamonds. The GIA proposed starting at D as the best and most colourless diamond available. The colour D was chosen because diamond dealers were already using A, B and C and a break was required to regulate and harmonize the industry. The diamond colour scale progresses through the alphabet from D until Z. The graphic below illustrates the GIA colour scale.

GIA Colour Grading Scale

diamond colours

Diamonds that are colourless, D, E or F are very rare and with a very limited supply they demand premium prices. Less than 1% of all diamonds are colourless and so the market demands a premium because of the scarcity. The diamond colours D, E or F are regarded as the 'collection colours' because they are so scarce and fantastically white. For the untrained and unaided eye, it is very difficult to distinguish between D, E or F colours as they are all colourless with miniscule difference in colour.

Diamonds that are colours G, H, I, or J are classified near-colourless and represent very good value. G and H are the more sort after in this particular near-colourless group and also termed 'rare white diamonds' and very sought after. Diamonds in I and J colours are slightly warmer and do command a reduction in price. would recommend clients buy H and above and drop below this colour grade only if price or carat size is the principle criteria. In saying that there is occasions when slight to medium fluorescence can interact with natural ultra violet light and bring a warmer diamond up a colour grade so this combination is worthy of further investigation, [see our section on diamond fluorescence].

A white gold or platinum setting will show up a diamonds colour as these metals are very white. Because gold is naturally yellow, yellow gold will make a colourless diamond appear more yellow. The use of a yellow gold bezel style setting can help a �warmer� diamond appear a grade or two higher and can be consider if yellow gold is preferred.

Colour grades of K to Z show visible signs of yellow colour and are not in demand. These colours are viewed as being poorer quality and there is less demand by the industry and consumers which is a little hard on these natural diamonds. Colours K to Z are fantastic in dress rings, brooches and alternative jewellery but the single solitaire engagement ring demands a better, whiter coloured diamond. It is the generally agreed conception that they are not as beautiful as colourless diamonds until they reach a point where the colour becomes so evident they become beautiful �fancy colours� which have very high in values (Z+ or Fancy). Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and colour choice is ultimately personal preference with different cultures, socioeconomic groups and nationalities having different requirements. Even the light yellow diamonds from N to Z are still natures miracles that have taken millions of years to crystallise and will always be preferable and have more kudos than a man made synthetic gem stone.

In summary the colour spectrum of diamonds starts at D and ends at Z and then into the fancy colours. The most expensive 'white diamonds' are the colourless diamonds D, E or F and then the near-colourless G, H, I, or J with G and H being universally most popular. The spectrum then gets a visible yellow hue from K-Z and the price becomes cheaper as these diamonds are more readily available.


DIAMOND CUT

The cut of a diamond can be ambiguous as it refers to both the shape in a general sense and then the actual cut quality or make in a more detailed description. There are many diamond shapes; the most popular is the round brilliant diamond. The round brilliant is the classic diamond shape and contains 58 facets including the culet. The round brilliant shape is the most expensive as it is usually possible to retain more carat size by cutting to fancy shapes than cut to a round. The choice of shape is your personal preference, below are some pictures of different diamond shapes:

Shapes

The term cut in a accurate sense defines the Diamonds �make�, symmetry and dimensions. The diamond's cut influences its ability to handle light refraction and create sparkle, scintillation and life. When a diamond is well cut the diamond's facets will be in alignment and allow light to refract within and then dispersed through the top of the diamond. With perfect light dispersion comes the beautiful diamond sparkle that every girl dreams of. At 247Diamonds.com we have created a sparkle factor to assist our shoppers click our link to shop.

DIAMOND SYMMETRY
Diamond symmetry is graded using what appear to be vague adjectives but are in fact precise qualitiy tags:
Ex = Excellent, ID = Ideal [Different terms use by different labs. they are the same quality]
VG = Very Good
G = Good
F = Fair
P = Poor
A symmetry that maximizes the optimal light return is known as Excellent or Ideal, illustrated as perfect below. Diamonds with Premium and Very Good symmetry are well cut diamonds and have an abundant sparkle and presence. Good symmetry represents value for money but will not capture all the potential light return but will have a nice sparkle. Fair and Poor cuts should be avoided as they may be too shallow or deep and have a less than satisfactory performance (as illustrated below, shallow/deep).



DIAMOND POLISH
Diamond Polish is also graded like symmetry with what appear to be vague adjectives but are in fact precise qualitiy tags:
Ex = Excellent, ID = Ideal [Different terms use by different labs. they are the same quality]
VG = Very Good
G = Good
F = Fair
P = Poor
These quality codes define the finished surface of the diamonds facets. A diamond can have different textures and direction of the carbon composition. This means that when polishing a diamonds facets different directional movement and various degrees of coarseness will give a better finish or polish. Diamond polish can be compared to sanding wood, cutting meat or painting; there is a general direction and texture to be observed for excellence. An excellent or very good polish will perform better than a good polish and a fair or poor polish could have noticeable blemish marks and should be avoided. General value and performance can be found with Good to Very Good polish with ExcellentIdeal Polish a premium for the best finish.

HEARTS AND ARROWS
Hearts & Arrows

Hearts and Arrows are a visual spectacle within certain diamonds. This pretty pattern was first recognised by the Japanese in the 1980�s using a viewing scope gadget. Viewing hearts and arrows (H & A) patterns in diamonds does not guarantee excellent or ideal symmetry. It is true that perfect hearts and arrows means that facets have been well aligned but there are many different shaped hearts and arrows, simply viewing this phenomenon isn�t proof of a well cut, well proportioned diamond. If the heart is split and not perfectly formed it fails and should the arrow shafts not align with the arrow heads then they too fail. Very precise analysis is required to ascertain the perfect shape of the hearts and arrows and this must be performed under near microscopic conditions using the novel toylike �Hearts and Arrows Scope�. There are 8 hearts and 8 arrows, if any one of these 16 patterns does not perfectly align it is not true H & A. Although nice to have there is a premium attached to the visual �bonus�; also note that once the diamond is set in a ring the hearts will no longer be visible for this reason if your not a collector, investor or a connoisseur focus should be on the reported symmetry ie: Excellent/Ideal, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor. It�s interesting to note that any cubic zirconia (CZ) which is an artificial synthetic diamond bought for a few cents will almost always show H & A in fact we have marketing paper weights the size of tennis balls that show Hearts and Arrows so don�t be too taken by this cleaver marketing visual.

SUMMARY
In summary it is important to have a quality cut diamond and more emphasis is now placed on excellent and ideal cuts to which there is a premium. Very good symmetry is still a quality diamond and these represent good value and performance. Good symmetry is suitable for shoppers on a tight budget with better carat size and clarity taking preference. A good cut will still sparkle and does represent value although a very good cut is a benchmark to achieve. Fair and Poor cuts should be avoided when possible as they will leak light and be visually unspectacular. Review the cut grades on a reputable diamond certificate; we list all the information on over 50,000 diamonds.

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What is a conflict diamond?
Where do they come from?
Public Awareness
Diamond Heaven and Conflict free Diamonds





What is a conflict diamond?
Conflict diamonds are diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognized governments. These diamonds are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments. The diamonds are sold on the black market and are used to propagate a bloody war which victimizes many children. The last thing anyone wants on their mind when making a diamond purchase is to know that their diamond possibly helped aid such a violent and brutal act of aggression.

"Conflict diamonds" - sometimes referred to as "blood diamonds" - have received a great deal of publicity recently. The spotlight will fall even more greatly on this issue when Warner Bros release their Hollywood blockbuster "The Blood Diamond" in December 2006, starring Leonardo DiCaprio.

The lure of diamonds as an ideal repository of illicit wealth for the unscrupulous has lead to wars that have raged in many diamond-producing countries of the world, resulting in massive levels of human suffering.



While diamond mines themselves are fought over, it is the gems which often become the cause of - and the fuel for - wars because they are such high-value commodities which were, until now, easily smuggled and traded into the legitimate diamond market.

Where do they come from?

Whilst a country such as Botswana is blessed with kimberlite pipes that enable an efficient, well-organised diamond mining industry and the benefication of diamond revenue, Sierra Leone, Angola, the Congo and other countries have alluvial diamonds that are scattered throughout their region in ancient riverbeds. The random distribution of diamond wealth in an impoverished society creates incredible problems and, in the case of Sierra Leone, enabled a horrible war. The problem is that unprotected wealth is a curse. Imagine if you gave your wife a £1 million diamond necklace and you do not provide her with any security.

The inevitable will happen - she will be robbed, possibly mugged and the necklace will be stolen. Was that gift to your wife a blessing or a curse? Imagine a world where Sierra Leone's government is corrupted by diamond dealers. Liberia attacks the diamond areas that cannot be well protected because the diamonds are scattered all over the border region. Liberian soldiers and local rebel teenagers, powered by drugs and armed with AK-47s, turn the local population into slaves who dig for diamonds. The diamonds are then sold to raise money for more guns to enslave more people to dig for more diamonds. Welcome to Sierra Leone 1998 to 1999.

Public Awareness
In 1998, Non Governmental Organisation (NGO) Global Witness brought to the world's attention that UNITA, a rebel group in Angola, was funding its war against the legitimate government by the control and sale of rough diamonds. We also know that rebel groups in Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of Congo were also funding conflicts in this way. Although peace has since been restored in Angola and Sierra Leone, and a cease-fire in the DRC, the diamond industry is determined to work with governments through the United Nations to ensure that future conflicts cannot be funded in this way.



The Kimberley Process

The Kimberley Process, created in 2000, is recognised as the spearhead effort by the diamond industry and the diamond-producing countries to crack down on the multi-billion dollar trade in gems which have been, and are being, mined in war zones.

The ultimate aim of The Kimberley Process is to ensure that every rough diamond sold under the certification requirements imposed upon the Member States by The Kimberley Process, is guaranteed to be conflict-free. Currently, more than 60 diamond-producing countries and several high-profile independent charities concerned with human rights and welfare are party to the agreement. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme demands that each shipment of rough diamonds being exported and crossing an international border must be sealed in a tamper proof container accompanied by a government validated Kimberly Process certificate. This certificate is resistant to forgery, uniquely numbered and includes a description of the contents of the container. This shipment can be sent only to a country who is a Kimberly Process participant and rough diamonds which are re-exported must also have a Kimberly Process certificate and can only be sent to a participating country.

Approx 10 years, conflict diamonds accounted for around 4% of the world diamond supply. Today, due to the success to date of the Kimberley Process, this is more like 0.2%. However, we feel this is still 0.2% too much.

Diamond Heaven and Conflict free Diamonds
Diamond Heaven wholeheartedly endorses every legitimate initiative to eradicate the disgraceful trade in conflict diamonds. Being a member of British Jewellers Association, we have to follow their code of ethics and hence committed to use conflict free diamonds for our jewellery. We guarantee that our diamonds are "conflict-free" by purchasing our diamonds from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations resolution, based on personal knowledge and/or written guarantees provided by our diamond suppliers.

After all, not only do conflict diamonds wreak untold misery upon innocent and defenceless people (and all ethical diamond jewellers need to make a stand against this) but we recognise that our customers need the assurance that the diamond they are buying - a symbol of their love for another person - is a legitimate, genuine, conflict-free gem.

Diamond : Marcel Tolkowsky

Marcel Tolkowsky was a Belgium diamond cutter, In 1919 he publicized his determinations for the most attractive and balanced cut for round brilliant diamonds, his proportions where based on experience, maximum beauty, collected opinion and mathematical calculation, this set the industry standard for many years, Marcel could be described as the father of the Modern Brilliant cut.

Tolkowsky DiamondHis proportions for cutting were followed and approximated for many years.

Diamonds are some times improperly called Tolkowsky cuts when their proportions range only approximates that of the exact proportions determined by Tolkowsky.

These proportions are

  • 34.5° Crown Angle.
  • 40.75° Pavilion Angles.
  • 59.3% Total Depth (excluding girdle thickness) with 16.2% of the depth being comprised of the crown (top half of the diamond) and 43.1% representing the pavilion lower half of the diamond.
  • 53% Table based on diamond's overall diameter.

Now with increased desire for perfection and with greater beauty the Hearts and Arrows Ideal Cut Diamond was created too even more exacting proportions of balance and beauty , remembering that only an exact small changeable ratio of proportions creates this Phenomenon of the Hearts and Arrows effect.

The American Gem Society or AGS has laid down their determination Ranges for Ideal Brilliant Cut Diamonds. The Tables are as follows: