- CARAT
- COLOUR
- CUT
- CLARITY
- FLUORESCENCE
- HEARTS AND ARROWS
- CONFLICT DIAMONDS
- KIMBERLEY PROCESS
DIAMOND CARAT
A diamonds weight is represented in carats. Carat is a measurement of weight NOT size. Weight impacts the price most dramatically out of the various diamond characteristics. This is why some diamonds have poor cut to retain diamond rough and larger carat size equating to a higher selling price. Diamond size is dependant on your budget and needs to be considered equally with the other characteristics of colour, cut and clarity in order to purchase a quality diamond.
One diamond carat is divided into 100 points; a diamond that is ¾ of a carat is also 75 points. One carat is the equivalent of 0.2 grams. A large diamond with poor cut, colour and clarity will appear less eye catching than a smaller diamond with excellent cut, colour and clarity so a delicate balance is required. Speak to 247Diamonds.com about balance and how to achieve your desired diamond size whilst balancing the other characteristics in a harmonious mix around your budgetary requirements.
Diamond carat weight affects the price of diamonds more than any other determinant. A diamond that is double the size of another diamond can be up to four times the price. This significant movement in price is because the relative scarcity of larger diamonds. A combination of a large size (1 carat+) with the best colour (D), best clarity (IF) and excellent/ideal cut is so rare the price is multiplied several times when comparing a similar size with poorer features.
The popular carat sizes are 0.50ct, 0.75ct, 1.00ct, 1.50ct and 2.00ct. Often diamond cutters will leave more rough diamond in order to achieve a larger carat weight and achieve a higher selling price. There are often bargains to be found at just under these most popular sizes and many of these bargains can have superior cuts which equate to more diamond sparkle and life. Diamonds with thick to very thick girdles are often intentionally cut to increase weight and this doesn�t improve performance it just costs you more (something to watch for). In recent years, having a 1.00 carat+ diamond was the best and most desired with no regard to quality, but as consumers are educated, (mainly because of the internet), more emphasis is placed on cut and visual performance. In the coming years dinner table diamond talk will be around quality rather than size and this could be something to consider.
SUMMARY
In summary a carat is a weight and does not always relate to size/ measurement although the two are usually proportional. A diamond cutter will often retain as much diamond rough as possible and forego cut in order to increase weight and maintain a higher price. Often this carat increase can make the diamond a poorer cut and less visually performing than a smaller diamond. Carat and then clarity are the two key price drivers and often shopping for diamonds just under the popular sizes of 0.50ct, 0.75ct, 1.00ct, 1.50ct, and 2.00ct can yield a better cut and a cheaper price. As consumers understand more about diamonds less emphasis will be placed on size and more on diamond quality. It�s easy to have the biggest car but should a Cadillac cost more than a Lamborghini?
DIAMOND COLOUR
The diamond colour scale was devised by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the mid 1950's to define and regulate the colour spectrum of diamonds. The GIA proposed starting at D as the best and most colourless diamond available. The colour D was chosen because diamond dealers were already using A, B and C and a break was required to regulate and harmonize the industry. The diamond colour scale progresses through the alphabet from D until Z. The graphic below illustrates the GIA colour scale.
GIA Colour Grading Scale
Diamonds that are colourless, D, E or F are very rare and with a very limited supply they demand premium prices. Less than 1% of all diamonds are colourless and so the market demands a premium because of the scarcity. The diamond colours D, E or F are regarded as the 'collection colours' because they are so scarce and fantastically white. For the untrained and unaided eye, it is very difficult to distinguish between D, E or F colours as they are all colourless with miniscule difference in colour.
Diamonds that are colours G, H, I, or J are classified near-colourless and represent very good value. G and H are the more sort after in this particular near-colourless group and also termed 'rare white diamonds' and very sought after. Diamonds in I and J colours are slightly warmer and do command a reduction in price. would recommend clients buy H and above and drop below this colour grade only if price or carat size is the principle criteria. In saying that there is occasions when slight to medium fluorescence can interact with natural ultra violet light and bring a warmer diamond up a colour grade so this combination is worthy of further investigation, [see our section on diamond fluorescence].
A white gold or platinum setting will show up a diamonds colour as these metals are very white. Because gold is naturally yellow, yellow gold will make a colourless diamond appear more yellow. The use of a yellow gold bezel style setting can help a �warmer� diamond appear a grade or two higher and can be consider if yellow gold is preferred.
Colour grades of K to Z show visible signs of yellow colour and are not in demand. These colours are viewed as being poorer quality and there is less demand by the industry and consumers which is a little hard on these natural diamonds. Colours K to Z are fantastic in dress rings, brooches and alternative jewellery but the single solitaire engagement ring demands a better, whiter coloured diamond. It is the generally agreed conception that they are not as beautiful as colourless diamonds until they reach a point where the colour becomes so evident they become beautiful �fancy colours� which have very high in values (Z+ or Fancy). Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and colour choice is ultimately personal preference with different cultures, socioeconomic groups and nationalities having different requirements. Even the light yellow diamonds from N to Z are still natures miracles that have taken millions of years to crystallise and will always be preferable and have more kudos than a man made synthetic gem stone.
In summary the colour spectrum of diamonds starts at D and ends at Z and then into the fancy colours. The most expensive 'white diamonds' are the colourless diamonds D, E or F and then the near-colourless G, H, I, or J with G and H being universally most popular. The spectrum then gets a visible yellow hue from K-Z and the price becomes cheaper as these diamonds are more readily available.
DIAMOND CUT
The cut of a diamond can be ambiguous as it refers to both the shape in a general sense and then the actual cut quality or make in a more detailed description. There are many diamond shapes; the most popular is the round brilliant diamond. The round brilliant is the classic diamond shape and contains 58 facets including the culet. The round brilliant shape is the most expensive as it is usually possible to retain more carat size by cutting to fancy shapes than cut to a round. The choice of shape is your personal preference, below are some pictures of different diamond shapes: 
The term cut in a accurate sense defines the Diamonds �make�, symmetry and dimensions. The diamond's cut influences its ability to handle light refraction and create sparkle, scintillation and life. When a diamond is well cut the diamond's facets will be in alignment and allow light to refract within and then dispersed through the top of the diamond. With perfect light dispersion comes the beautiful diamond sparkle that every girl dreams of. At 247Diamonds.com we have created a sparkle factor to assist our shoppers click our link to shop.
DIAMOND SYMMETRY
Diamond symmetry is graded using what appear to be vague adjectives but are in fact precise qualitiy tags:
Ex = Excellent, ID = Ideal [Different terms use by different labs. they are the same quality]
VG = Very Good
G = Good
F = Fair
P = Poor
A symmetry that maximizes the optimal light return is known as Excellent or Ideal, illustrated as perfect below. Diamonds with Premium and Very Good symmetry are well cut diamonds and have an abundant sparkle and presence. Good symmetry represents value for money but will not capture all the potential light return but will have a nice sparkle. Fair and Poor cuts should be avoided as they may be too shallow or deep and have a less than satisfactory performance (as illustrated below, shallow/deep).
DIAMOND POLISH
Diamond Polish is also graded like symmetry with what appear to be vague adjectives but are in fact precise qualitiy tags:
Ex = Excellent, ID = Ideal [Different terms use by different labs. they are the same quality]
VG = Very Good
G = Good
F = Fair
P = Poor
These quality codes define the finished surface of the diamonds facets. A diamond can have different textures and direction of the carbon composition. This means that when polishing a diamonds facets different directional movement and various degrees of coarseness will give a better finish or polish. Diamond polish can be compared to sanding wood, cutting meat or painting; there is a general direction and texture to be observed for excellence. An excellent or very good polish will perform better than a good polish and a fair or poor polish could have noticeable blemish marks and should be avoided. General value and performance can be found with Good to Very Good polish with ExcellentIdeal Polish a premium for the best finish.
HEARTS AND ARROWS
Hearts and Arrows are a visual spectacle within certain diamonds. This pretty pattern was first recognised by the Japanese in the 1980�s using a viewing scope gadget. Viewing hearts and arrows (H & A) patterns in diamonds does not guarantee excellent or ideal symmetry. It is true that perfect hearts and arrows means that facets have been well aligned but there are many different shaped hearts and arrows, simply viewing this phenomenon isn�t proof of a well cut, well proportioned diamond. If the heart is split and not perfectly formed it fails and should the arrow shafts not align with the arrow heads then they too fail. Very precise analysis is required to ascertain the perfect shape of the hearts and arrows and this must be performed under near microscopic conditions using the novel toylike �Hearts and Arrows Scope�. There are 8 hearts and 8 arrows, if any one of these 16 patterns does not perfectly align it is not true H & A. Although nice to have there is a premium attached to the visual �bonus�; also note that once the diamond is set in a ring the hearts will no longer be visible for this reason if your not a collector, investor or a connoisseur focus should be on the reported symmetry ie: Excellent/Ideal, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor. It�s interesting to note that any cubic zirconia (CZ) which is an artificial synthetic diamond bought for a few cents will almost always show H & A in fact we have marketing paper weights the size of tennis balls that show Hearts and Arrows so don�t be too taken by this cleaver marketing visual.
SUMMARY
In summary it is important to have a quality cut diamond and more emphasis is now placed on excellent and ideal cuts to which there is a premium. Very good symmetry is still a quality diamond and these represent good value and performance. Good symmetry is suitable for shoppers on a tight budget with better carat size and clarity taking preference. A good cut will still sparkle and does represent value although a very good cut is a benchmark to achieve. Fair and Poor cuts should be avoided when possible as they will leak light and be visually unspectacular. Review the cut grades on a reputable diamond certificate; we list all the information on over 50,000 diamonds.
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What is a conflict diamond?
Where do they come from?
Public Awareness
Diamond Heaven and Conflict free Diamonds
 What is a conflict diamond?
Conflict diamonds are diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognized governments. These diamonds are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments. The diamonds are sold on the black market and are used to propagate a bloody war which victimizes many children. The last thing anyone wants on their mind when making a diamond purchase is to know that their diamond possibly helped aid such a violent and brutal act of aggression.
"Conflict diamonds" - sometimes referred to as "blood diamonds" - have received a great deal of publicity recently. The spotlight will fall even more greatly on this issue when Warner Bros release their Hollywood blockbuster "The Blood Diamond" in December 2006, starring Leonardo DiCaprio.
The lure of diamonds as an ideal repository of illicit wealth for the unscrupulous has lead to wars that have raged in many diamond-producing countries of the world, resulting in massive levels of human suffering. |
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While diamond mines themselves are fought over, it is the gems which often become the cause of - and the fuel for - wars because they are such high-value commodities which were, until now, easily smuggled and traded into the legitimate diamond market.
Where do they come from?
Whilst a country such as Botswana is blessed with kimberlite pipes that enable an efficient, well-organised diamond mining industry and the benefication of diamond revenue, Sierra Leone, Angola, the Congo and other countries have alluvial diamonds that are scattered throughout their region in ancient riverbeds. The random distribution of diamond wealth in an impoverished society creates incredible problems and, in the case of Sierra Leone, enabled a horrible war. The problem is that unprotected wealth is a curse. Imagine if you gave your wife a £1 million diamond necklace and you do not provide her with any security.
The inevitable will happen - she will be robbed, possibly mugged and the necklace will be stolen. Was that gift to your wife a blessing or a curse? Imagine a world where Sierra Leone's government is corrupted by diamond dealers. Liberia attacks the diamond areas that cannot be well protected because the diamonds are scattered all over the border region. Liberian soldiers and local rebel teenagers, powered by drugs and armed with AK-47s, turn the local population into slaves who dig for diamonds. The diamonds are then sold to raise money for more guns to enslave more people to dig for more diamonds. Welcome to Sierra Leone 1998 to 1999.
Public Awareness
In 1998, Non Governmental Organisation (NGO) Global Witness brought to the world's attention that UNITA, a rebel group in Angola, was funding its war against the legitimate government by the control and sale of rough diamonds. We also know that rebel groups in Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of Congo were also funding conflicts in this way. Although peace has since been restored in Angola and Sierra Leone, and a cease-fire in the DRC, the diamond industry is determined to work with governments through the United Nations to ensure that future conflicts cannot be funded in this way.
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| The Kimberley Process
 The Kimberley Process, created in 2000, is recognised as the spearhead effort by the diamond industry and the diamond-producing countries to crack down on the multi-billion dollar trade in gems which have been, and are being, mined in war zones.
The ultimate aim of The Kimberley Process is to ensure that every rough diamond sold under the certification requirements imposed upon the Member States by The Kimberley Process, is guaranteed to be conflict-free. Currently, more than 60 diamond-producing countries and several high-profile independent charities concerned with human rights and welfare are party to the agreement. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme demands that each shipment of rough diamonds being exported and crossing an international border must be sealed in a tamper proof container accompanied by a government validated Kimberly Process certificate. This certificate is resistant to forgery, uniquely numbered and includes a description of the contents of the container. This shipment can be sent only to a country who is a Kimberly Process participant and rough diamonds which are re-exported must also have a Kimberly Process certificate and can only be sent to a participating country.
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Approx 10 years, conflict diamonds accounted for around 4% of the world diamond supply. Today, due to the success to date of the Kimberley Process, this is more like 0.2%. However, we feel this is still 0.2% too much.
Diamond Heaven and Conflict free Diamonds
Diamond Heaven wholeheartedly endorses every legitimate initiative to eradicate the disgraceful trade in conflict diamonds. Being a member of British Jewellers Association, we have to follow their code of ethics and hence committed to use conflict free diamonds for our jewellery. We guarantee that our diamonds are "conflict-free" by purchasing our diamonds from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations resolution, based on personal knowledge and/or written guarantees provided by our diamond suppliers.
After all, not only do conflict diamonds wreak untold misery upon innocent and defenceless people (and all ethical diamond jewellers need to make a stand against this) but we recognise that our customers need the assurance that the diamond they are buying - a symbol of their love for another person - is a legitimate, genuine, conflict-free gem.
There are no hard rules about whether or not her wedding band should be the same metal as her engagement ring. Many women like the symmetry of two identically matching rings, others prefer the look of two distinctive bands of colour. Of course, you could even choose a platinum band to go with a white gold engagement ring—it's all personal preference.
Getting the right fit involves more than just careful sizing, you should also consider the general design of the ring. At Blue Nile, you have your choice of traditional or comfort-fit wedding bands. The traditional band has a flat interior surface and simple domed exterior. The comfort-fit band has slightly rounded inside edges to enable more comfortable long-term wear
At Blue Nile, men's wedding bands are available in 3, 4, 5, and 6mm widths. When selecting your width, consider the shape of your hand. Is your hand long and narrow or short and broad? Generally, your ring should match the shape of your hand. Narrow bands work best on narrow hands while broad bands are better for broad hands, but the bottom line is always personal preference. 
His proportions for cutting were followed and approximated for many years.
